EVEN if you’ve never been to The Fishery in East Rockaway, you’ve probably been somewhere like it: a casual seafood spot with an outdoor deck overlooking the water (in this case, East Rockaway Inlet). It’s a popular formula all along the Eastern Seaboard from Maine to Florida, but the Fishery is a cut above the norm.Unlike the indoor dining rooms at most outdoor seafood places, those at the Fishery are not afterthoughts; the bar area, for instance, has comfortable leather booths. Being indoors also means being out of earshot of the live music — a plus for some diners.
The Fishery follows the typical format of the waterfront seafood spot: big portions, moderate prices, perky young servers and a bedsheet-size menu of every imaginable fish and shellfish. The difference here is that the food at the Fishery is surprisingly good. Even the small round loaf of bread with a knife sticking out of it (generally a bad sign) was a notch above the usual cottony disaster.
The best entrée was the hot lobster roll, served with melted butter to pour over the toasted bun and sweet lobster meat. It was accompanied by excellent coarse-cut, creamy coleslaw and terrific crisp French fries. Every entrée came with a choice of two sides from a list of a dozen choices. Onion rings were as delightful as the fries, and string beans were crisp-tender; only waterlogged corn on the cob was disappointing.
The staff, dashing around in navy T-shirts and khaki pants or shorts, is friendly and efficient, and even though runners don’t know who ordered what dish, it’s forgivable at such a casual spot.Go to the Fishery for the music-fueled scene and the waterfront ambiance; but go, too — even on a cold, rainy night — for the food.
The Fishery, 1 Main Street (an extension of Ocean Avenue), East Rockaway (516) 256-7117
THE SPACE No-frills fish house with large waterfront deck. Wheelchair accessible.
THE CROWD Casually dressed people of all ages.
THE BAR There are two, one outdoors that is crowded on busy nights with patrons listening to live music, and a long wooden bar indoors in a room with black leather booths. There are 30 wines by the bottle ($23 to $190) and 20 by the glass ($6.50 to $8.50).
THE BILL Lunch entrees, $8.95 to $41.95. Dinner entrees, $9.95 to $41.95. MasterCard, Visa, American Express and Discover are accepted.
WHAT WE LIKE Chowder sampler, duck spring roll, steamers, Caesar salad, lobster roll, fried oysters, stuffed flounder, ginger-teriyaki tuna, coleslaw, French fries, onion rings, string beans, all desserts.
IF YOU GO Open 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, till 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Reservations taken for four or more on the deck, for any number inside.